One for the near future. I have stripped and will be removing all detail, paint,cf and decals from my mid 2000’s Tamiya Williams and re building it.
Something i’ve wanted to do for a while. As you progress and learn new techniques you look back at old builds and think, ok! I can do this much much better. I’ve learnt so many new techniques and learnt so much over the years and this is something I really want to do. So here goes……
Some of you may wonder why? Yes I agree with some thoughts that maybe flying about regards keeping it and get another. Well For me stripping and re building is fun and buying another kit costs more money so this way I get the best of both worlds. It also gives me an idea of how much further I have come in this hobby by taking each part off and understanding why I did it that way and how I can make it better. I will update with some stripped down sections later on this next month.
So as mentioned above I stripped the car down to nothing, no parts attached no cables, wires, nuts and bolts. Bellow I have photographed the main car parts that are ready for a paint and primer stripping process. I tried sanding it all down but it’s too time consuming so in the bath they go.
So after deliberating for a while on this and the new top studio sets appearing on the market I’ve decided to do two fw14b’s. The old one that has been stripped will be rebuilt but as a garaged half constructed vehicle.
The other Fw14b will be the actual replica of the Portuguese car that I photographed over 15 years ago.
I have the paint from Hiroboy the colour matched zero paints set above. I also have the kit that I managed to get hold of really cheap off a good friend and the top studio sets. The last image has the brake set. Camel decals, two sets of air funnels, the wing sets, cockpit set and finally the front suspension and brake cylinder set. The ECU set I believe from what top studio have told me will be available around the beginning of the new year. ( side pod set). Then the engine set should be sometime after that. Exactly when I have no idea. So there is a lot of work to do. Once the two kits I have on the bench are done I’ll be doing this one. I am also searching for the carbon decal sets but they are proving difficult to get hold of so I may just make these myself.
I managed to get hold of some decal sheets for the FW14B. Rather than spending hours and hours making my own as I really want to get this kit done so I got these below.
Also a must when you are building this car is the book below. There isn’t a great deal of visual detail however if you have my soon to be released book and or my cd or download there is data in this book with info on all the parts of the car that will help you understand what they did how they were made and various detailed drawings.
When I do get round to doing this car it will be like no other wip I have ever done. There will be videos and in-depth step by step guides to how I build it. It will be a long and detailed build so hope you enjoy it when I get to it possibly spring time maybe earlier.
After spending some time talking to a good Friend (Graham) we noticed that the decals that I purchased are not entirely correct. Time for thought. Do I use these or not? I have time to think about it as this kit is a long term project. I will do some research and find a possible alternative if it’s viable.
If you look closely at the carbon across the car you will notice that there is a trace line in more or less every part of the car. How to replicate this correctly is what I want to do. If you look at the cf set I have it’s not there. So again time for thought. I have a friend that works for TVR who is a carbon specialist so will have a chat with him at some point and see what he suggests. The idea of actually making the car from proper carbon has crossed my mind but getting it down to 1/12 scale would be a massive task. Let’s see what happens. Doubt it but it’s something to think about.
Over the past few days whilst jumping from the 126 c2 and the mp4/6 I’ve been reading the Haynes owners workshop manual on the FW14B. For many years I’ve understood the car I photographed like Mathews did was the winning car from the Portuguese GP of 92′. What I didn’t know was the significance and the reasons for its induction into Franks personal museum. For one as a friend mentioned to me earlier the car wasn’t a multi, multi GP winner. However the significance of this car is due to the fact that 1: won the Portuguese, German and British GP’s. 2: it was one of many chassis that both drivers of that season drove. Mansell – Patrese. But one thing stands out more than any other and comes in two parts. 1: being that this car had Mansell’s Initials embroidered in the cock pit as seen bellow and 2: this was the only chassis that Mansell drove that no one else did. No testers no other drivers. This car chassis was exclusive to Mansell.
Now unless someone can tell me different I haven’t seen this on another Fw14B. I could be wrong but this is very unique. The owners manual is a must buy if you can get hold of one. There is so much information on this vehicle that I have never read anywhere before. Yes the manual hasn’t got a whole host of images as in depth and detailed as the ones I did but it has documented detail that is invaluable. Get this book and read up on the history of this car and how it came about. One thing I did learn was the car was a nearly never car but it’s conception started as early as the FW11’s.
So…… here we go the FW14B rebuild. I’ve not stopped working on the mp4/6 1/20 I’m just waiting for some parts so thought I’d start prep on the car. There’s a lot to do due to the inaccuracies on the kit from the car I am depicting.
So the first stage of the build is getting the major panels, body parts and large parts formed correctly. After spending hours reconnecting with this car after such a long time away it has brought back some fond memories of what I originally did. However this time I will be going to a different level. As mentioned before prep is everything. Get all the messy stuff out of the way.
The build will be in stages based on the top studio sets and how they are arranged. I will be using the original kit manual but I know this car inside out so will only need it if I get stuck. (Hopefully not). It’s always good to have a mass of information prior to building.
First was the monocoque and the removal of the nose cone. Using a sharp scalpel and a modelling saw I removed it very carefully. Bare in mind the kit wasn’t designed to be cut up and messed with. The monocoque and the nose attached are pretty solid but when you remove it or during that process the plastic becomes quite flimsy and delicate.
At all times I’m sanding and placing the parts in their correct positions making sure they marry up properly. You also have to accommodate too for the top studio set so not leaving anything hanging or out of place. In the last picture you can see the red arrows. These show you the areas that I have sanded down to remove mould lines and marks. There are a lot of these on this kit on every panel and part. Sanding down gently using a arcing motion so as to not put too many flat spots on the monocoque. I use three sanding pads. Hard, medium and fine and I’m looking for a nice firm smooth finish.
The monocoque has quite a few inaccuracies and I will be going through this shortly and explain why and how I will be rectifying these.
You will also notice two holes that have appeared on the lower sections where the front of the monocoque curves down and meets up with the mould line that I removed. A couple of mm away from the lover wish bone connection point. These are for the hoses that run through the arm to the brake callipers. I will discuss this later in the build but they have been done in advance so I don’t damage any further work I do. Ie painting and glossing work.
One thing I have never done before and always wondered how to get round without using loads of putty is the area where external sections meet and are glued. I am part of a few military and aviation groups online and was fascinated to see how they get round things. Once the two parts are connected and glued and left for a few hours I go over the joints with some Tamiya extra thin glue. The square bottle with green red and blue logo and green top. Then leave for about an hour and lightly sand down to get a smooth finish. Never used to do this before and seeing as though I want this build to be perfect I’m using this tactic and so far I’m very happy. One thing I notice is the lack of understanding and want to join in with these model builders. I can tell you now that it’s so important that we learn from others. I can honestly say it’s opened my eyes to things like finishing. Weathering etc.
Second part of the first stage is to disconnect all the cowling as per the original car. Using a very sharp scalpel and a steady hand I scored the connecting lines. This took about 20 or so minutes per side to make it correct. If you do decide to do this on your build make sure you take your time. I have a donor car if I make a mistake. I appreciate not everyone has this luxury but do take your time. Once they were apart I sanded down and made sure the contours were smooth and correct. At a later stage I will go through how I will make the connecting parts.
Any mould lines and marks have been removed/sanded down and all screw holes that are on the kit filled in and sanded down. Again later I will add connecting points as per reference. The upper section of the cowling that stands above the engine and ECU didn’t need much doing to it apart from sanding the inner section.
Back to the monocoque. As per reference one major part of the kit that’s wrong is the rear end. Where the side pods and radiators sit, there is a mistake. As you can see below.
The arrows indicate the sides of the monocoque adjacent to the fuel cell that are not formed properly. If you look at the naked carbon base in the picture below the kit part you can see that they stop shy of the rear bulk head and curl inwards. To do this I marked out the correct area to cut by taping the side pods to the monocoque and marked lines where to cut.
Again using a steady hand and patience I scored the area with my scalpel and then used my model saw to cut out the sections. Once this was done I used filler and plastic card to crate the inward corner. Left it over night and sanded down the following day.
I may have mentioned this before but the top of the fuel cell will be left until I have received the ECU set I have ordered. As I haven’t seen the parts yet I want to make sure any removal of parts isn’t premature.
Once I had these parts done I put them all together, (dry fitting) to make sure they all still stayed in place. You may notice some changes in the under tray! I will now show you.
The original under tray that Tamiya made is great apart from a few issues on the rear diffuser. It’s not accurate. If you look through your reference you will notice that the cowling and the side sections around the rear drive and wishbones cut short of the rear of the under tray and there is a curved section that juts out above the exhaust outlets. This was a scary moment as I wasn’t prepared to break it. Using a pen I marked out the area I wanted to remove and slowly scored with a scalpel and removed areas that were not needed. Then sanded down and thinned out to look like a carbon shaped lip as per reference. As you can see below it looks a lot better.
Looking at it now I might just thin it down a bit more.
Once I had that done I sanded down and removed all the mould spots and lines. Like I said before there are loads of them. Don’t miss them out as it will make the kit look like a toy. (My favourite Jay Kay term). The objective is to make it as real as possible. (Well that’s my plan anyway).
As you can see from the image above there are loads of holes to fill. As this will be displayed under the raised chassis as I saw it when I was at Franks mechanics bay in Oxford, there is no need for all these to be on show it will reduce the effectiveness of the build.
Once that was done I set my sights on the rear panels around the drive shaft and suspension arms and wishbones. I’ve removed all the mould spots and lines as usual using my three stage sanding process. Using a scalpel and a pair of tiny cutters I removed the connecting parts for the other body panels to sit against. Makes it look more authentic. Below are the two stages of the process.
With mould holes/spots and connecting parts.
All removed. I just need to sand these down again to make the surfaces nice and flat.
Once I had this all done I put the rear end and cowling together and made sure it all fitted correctly. One part I didn’t show before was the stages to cut short the cowling at the back so it married up properly with the diffuser and looks like the original car. The cowling protrudes too far unlike the real thing.
I marked with a pen the areas that I wanted to cut down. Using a pair of snips and sanding pads it now looks like below.
This was done on both sides.
I had to do a bit of extra sanding so the exit ports on the body work aligned.
Back to the cowling but this time the sides. I’ve sanded them down a bit more and started to add some detail ready for later in the build when I put the interior heat material in. There are also so other areas of detail. For one on the right side pod cover there is a hatch that is moulded into the buddy of that panel but nothing on the other side. I’m tempted to make this a working hatch however I may just add detail to the rear to give the appearance that’s it’s light.
For the connection points on the side pod covers I’ve marked out and cut out areas where I’ll put metal sheet. I’ve cut it down to size to emulate the points where the joining screws go. This is a delicate process and you need to take time otherwise you could go through the plastic and ruin the cover. I’ve cut the section down to 1mm therefore being able to hide them when the detail goes on inside. This way it won’t show up when the heat material lays over the top.
Both are complete and ready for the next stage. It looks a bit rough at the moment but you will get the general gist of what I’m doing.
The under tray is now ready for its first layer of undercoat. I’ll dip this in some luke warm water and then leave to dry overnight. I want the surfaces to be as clean as possible. No painting for the moment there is still loads to do. My next task is to get the photoetch out of the top studio set for the front bulk head and work out how I’m going to attach this and when.
All the holes and points where Tamiya want you to attach the cowling to the chassis have gone on both sides. All mould lines and marks have gone too.
Ooooh whilst posting this I’ve just seen a little mark that needs removing. (Top left on the floor at the corner).
This is the second stage of the build. As many of you may or may not be familiar with this kit the monocoque and how it’s constructed as a standered oob kit is a bit crazy. First thing you do is look at it and wonder, where do I start what do I do first?? When I first built this I painted the monocoque first and it didn’t work out the way I wanted and was very stressful. Since then I’ve watched many YouTube clips on how the aviation guys build their kits. From that I will start with the basics of the front end as you need that in before you close down the top. However before you do that you need to put in the steering wheel and other detail of which there is an abundance in this top studio kit. So first things first the bulk head and then get the cock pit built.
The bulk head PE set in this kit is amazing. Really really detailed so here we go.
Let’s get it opened and see what’s in there.
So on the left we have all the main bulk head PE and the nose PE. Secondly the hoses and cables. Not bothered about them yet and then there’s all the brass and metal parts. Some of them are really small so unless you’ve done detail at 1/24 and 1/20 scale these may scare you. Don’t let it. Use your magnifying glasses or lamp and keep them safe still in their bag. Don’t open till you get to that section. So let’s have a look at the bulk head and see what we have and how it’s going to fit.
This is the section I want to investigate as it’s this that will make my decision on my first steps. How the bulk head plates attach and in what order and would it be better to paint the monocoque first. You always go in with a plan then something comes up that changes your mind. This may change my mind but let’s see what’s in store!
Lots of really nice bits of detail. Time to plan so let’s get on with it.
Straight away looking at this I have been pushed into a situation that I knew would happen.
The bulk head needs making up first. Then coated with metal primer then cf detailing. I now know I will have to paint the monocoque first. But first I will have a play with the initial part that sits on the front end and see how it looks and whether I need to build up the back with anything prior to fitment.
So the part bellow is the facia. After that there are two other panels that attach to the back of it. Very snug fit infact too snug. From the detail the cf that shows doesn’t run straight to the edge it hangs back by a cm and you see the blue of the car showing. Time for thought. Off to the shops. I’ve put it down so I can have a think about really what to do here first.
I’ve started to build up the bulk head as per the studio manual. Below is the first stage of building it.
9 parts. 3 plates and 6 rings as shown above. The rings are really small but big enough to be able to handle them. I use really small micro tipped tweezers due to a lot of 1/20 and 1/24 builds that I do. They have come in handy for many a 1/12 build.
Tomorrow I’ll be putting some metal primer on and leaving it to dry for 24 hours. Once that’s done I can then add the carbon decal.
Whilst that part is drying and ready for the cf I’ll be looking more at the inside of the tub. Below is a pic that I did with some black flocking that I was playing with earlier to get an idea of the look I want. Now, I only have black so once it’s in I will spray with a dirty grey finish. Looking back at the detail most of the tub is carbon but there are areas like the seat that are of a suede type material. I’m still undecided yet as to how I want to finish this part but I may edge more towards proper carbon,
Rough mock up to get an idea of the space I am going to be working with. Most of the area between the back of the dash and the pedals can’t be seen however I know what will be there. So I want it to be correct. It will drive me nuts if I don’t. There’s between 2-3 inch of space in there, maybe less and once the pedals go in there isn’t a lot of space around the Bulk head. So over night I’ll ponder on a few things and work out what I want to do.
I had a good sleep last night but just prior to that I had a detailed conversation with Robin Witt about the inner tub section that I finished on last night. I’m steering away from the flocking Idea and tempted to either use full carbon inside or something that Rob mentioned. Glass balls! Yes. He used these in his recent MP4/7 1/20 build for the drivers seat. If you’ve seen his work you will get where I’m coming from. It’s almost I believe a perfect way of replicating the level of detail we are looking for. I will purchase some and go through the process at a later date.
I had an email last night to say that my ECU kit had been dispatched and will be with me in the next few days. Once I get my hands on it I’ll be able to adapt the top rear end of the monocoque ready for paint so I can get on with the detailed cockpit and front suspension.
So back in the office for a a full 9 hours. As stated earlier there are so many mould lines and sections on this kit that need removing to give that perfect finish. Here is an example amplified to you get an idea of how much prep work there is. As part of the front end build the cover that sits above all the actuator gear needs a bit of work. Removing the horrible lines down the side and the lip that is supposed to rest under the nose cone.
As you can see from the above images there is quite a bit to do on such a small piece.
As per the top studio instructions this part needs thinning down anyway so it’s a win win. If you don’t the cover won’t fit due to the raised electronics.
Be careful when you sand down the cockpit side of the hood. I’d recommend sanding down the under sides and the front that marries up with the nose cone then fill the two mould holes either side of the top hole then sand down. The reason is as I found out the mould holes are quite deep and the base of them is quite close to the outer layer of plastic and you run the risk of breaking it. As you can see no more mould lines or holes on either side. Once that was done I had to fill the lower of the two deliberate holes and make a new one closer to the first. This will be for the antenna.
I’ve ordered some more cf from Hiroboy to detail the bulk head and the rear and interior of the nose. So I’ll leave this till next week. So far so good. Think I’ll start to look at the front wish bones upper and lower on both sides. These need some filing down and some weld lines added. I’ll get them out and have a look and show you what I have planned for them shortly.
Upper and lower front wish bones marked up ready to file down and examine for detail.
I leave the factory mould arms on that hold the wish bones together whilst I’m detailing them. I know they are metal but I don’t want to run the risk of ruining then. So I leave them on and remove pre painting. As they don’t interfere in any detailing it’s a big benefit. But each to their own.
I’ve started doing the wells lines. This is a tough one getting it right but without having to completely reconstruct the connecting arm end that goes on the wheel hub this is the best I can do. To be honest I would probably fabricate most parts on this car myself but it will take forever. Maybe one day in the future when I’m retired. But for now I’m happy with this.
Think I’ll be on these for a few hours. This is the first one and I’ve only done one side. See you soon…….
I’ll also be filing these horrible things off too.
Removed. Much better than before. I also use normal sanding sticks too to flatten it off for when the first coat of primer goes on. This negates an further work before the final colour coats.
There are so many mould marks and lines on these wish bones. Don’t forget the ones under the wheel hub joints and the top edge either. Makes the finish much more desirable.
Before and after shot of the lower front wish bones. It looks rough but it’s flat as a pancake. The screw has been filed down and the remaining Philips recess has been filled in too and sanded down. Once the primer goes down it should just be a flat piece.
Now that they have both been done it’s now time for the brake line slots and the lower wishbone weld lines.
Over the last hours I’ve completed the front wish bones. Including weld lines and brake hose inlets made form copper 1mm hollow tubing. Cut at an angle and about 3-4mm long. Now you may ask, how do the hoses go in and then out? Well at the moment I’m trawling through my reference to see where they do come out. Once I have found them I will do the same on the wheel hub side.
Ok I’ve just found some more reference that is from a completely different angle and the hose joints for the brake lines don’t come from the top of the arm they come from the side so I’ll be removing them and starting again. This time in the correct position. I’ve also located the exit point too which is bellow the lower side of the wheel hub.
One side done just the other to do now. I would have finished these ages ago however I noticed a mistake I’d made. Can you spot it? I did luckily! Not too late so have had to re do one of the lower wish bones. If you haven’t seen it then thanks ha ha. I was so zoned out by doing the weld lines that I’d replicated the left hand side. So off came the weld lines and actuator arm connector and flipped it over and re did it.
When you are at this stage you always worry about how images come across. I don’t like the look of things at this stage as they look messy but you just have to keep the positivity going. Once you get in the spray booth things start to look real.
That’s it for today. I’m all out. Too much of a good thing can cause issues and I really don’t need that so I’ll leave you with a couple of pics of how it’s coming along.
I’ve sanded down the top of the wheel hubs ready for a bit of scratch building and a few holes that need drilling ready for speed sensors and nuts etc. As per reference the top of the hub isn’t flat so will be making some spines of which there are two the run from the front to the first but and one to the last.
Taking shape. Needs so much doing to it yet and I haven’t even started the detailing. But as a rule thumb always get the prep work done and everything else should come to gether once you start to paint and add detail. Everything should just slot nicely into place. So far everything has fitted nicely. Apart from that little mixup of mine earlier I’m pretty happy with how it’s going.
Today and tomorrow are study days. Gathering information on the areas I’ll be working on next week. I’m back at work Monday for a few days so may not get a whole lot of time to get back to the build. But mid week and the latter stages of it I should be on it.
Today I have been using some old spare 90’s f1 tyres to have a play with to replicate Mansell’s race worn tyres. Getting the finish I want is going to be hard but so far I’m on the right track. Just a case of perfecting it.
I’m also torn between doing a very clean build or a used build. There are certain parts of the car where I will be adding some work sections but I also don’t want to go over the top. I also need to consider the fact I am replicating this car as I saw it in the mechanics bay and the way it was laid out….. decisions, decisions, decisions. Obviously my plan is to build clean and add a bit of wear and tear later but I’m in no rush to make that decision.
I think this one is looking a lot better. All I need to do now is find a way to manipulate the rubber tyre section before it hits the tyre wall in the same way without it ruining the whole tyre.
As in this section here. I may sand the top just above where the wall meets the tyre rubber that is in contact with the track as much as I can so it’s almost leaving a thin layer then do my race worn tyre technique. I will divulge this information at some point soon I just want to perfect it and if those out there that like it then I am more than happy to share if it helps you.
Over the last few hours I’ve been doing a lot of research and searching through my reference. There are a couple of things that I’ll be changing. Mainly the parts that connect the cowling together. I feel looking back that they aren’t a true representation of what is actually on the original car. They are too big and too square and will be removed. Well the rear sections anyway. Looking at the reference they are narrower and longer. Secondly the top of the front end of the monocoque needs to be sanded down. I’m not happy with the kit parts and the raised carbon effect that’s on it will effect the carbon decals when they get added. So I’ll get back to these next week and amend them.
Today I’ve not done much on the car but the little I have done is below. After wanting to get a nice finish inside the tub I decided to have a play with glass bubbles. Extremely cheap for what it is. As Robin said this will probably last you a lifetime if you save the over flow. Think it was £10 including postage. As Rob suggested these are glass bubbles and are dangerous. Use a well ventilated room and use a mask and gloves. This stuff is lethal and stinks too.
After having a conversation with Robin as I mentioned previously I wanted to use something besides flocking on the inside of the tub. Robin used glass bubbles over enamel and then paint as per your desire. I was unsure but after ordering some and receiving them today I had a play and was quite surprised by the finish. So after some test strips with some plastic card and the above process I came up with the following.
It really does hug every contour of the area that you want to cover. After doing some tests as I said before I chose German grey Tamiya paint. This was what I finished up with. As close as I’m going to get to the colour of the carbon inside where the pedals are. Now I know you won’t see much of the inner tub but I wanted to give this car the due respect it deserves. Plus, you can see bits inside from the front end the cockpit and the upper part of the monocoque where all the electronics are for the suspension. So during the build you will obviously see the detail I add so knowing it’s there is all the more satisfying.
After messing about with this I wanted to get a few things prepped for next week. Firstly I removed the connecting carbon sections that I made from brass sheet ready for some new ones next week on the side pod covers. Then I prepped the upper part of the tub.
In the top studio manual you need to do four things. Remove the inner lugs from the service hatch for the pedal and master cylinders. Fill in the two holes above it. Drill a new hole to the right of the upper right hand side and finally make a new hole 4mm by 3mm for the area all the hoses enter the monocoque from above. I’ve also sanded down the horrible plastic carbon mould that was there too. I also noticed a little mould line either side at the back of the actuator arm housing that needed removing too that I missed previously. All this prep is so important of you want to give the car that spotless finish.
All I need to do is sand down the filler above the square hole and drill a slightly smaller hole where the original one was.
After this I decided to have a look at the air scoops on the front wheel hubs. Looking at reference these two front kit scoops need completely re doing so that’s something for next week. I’ll leave it here for now. One thing I have done is put carbon on the front bulk head parts and that should be set later tonight. So once I get back to it I’ll add pictures.
Today was supposed to be a work day but due to the heavy snow overnight we have had to cancel. Being on a roof in this weather is too dangerous so back to the fw14b.
A quick job to start off with this morning is the removal of parts on the side pods. Now, as I don’t have the top studio set yet I have decided to leave the vast majority as it’s supposed to be. I have removed the radiator straps as I know there are a set of pe straps in the set. I have also removed the inner lugs that connect the side pods to the monocoque. I have done this due to authenticity. Looking back at my old kit you can just about see them and it’s not what I am looking for. Also on the inside of the tub you will see the lugs jutting through the side panel and again I don’t want this. So off they come.
Another little job was to remove the mould circles and large protruding plastic recess sections for the aerial and actuators on the underside of the front monocoque section. Now you may say why? Why remove all this and go to all the effort when it’s basically hidden? Well my mind set is that if I cut corners no matter whether they are valid or not it sets a prescience for the rest of the build and for me that’s the wrong attitude. However, each to their own it’s how you want to make this kit that matters to you.
The under section has now had the enamel and glass bubbles added and painted German grey as per the rest of the inner tub.
As you can see it’s still wet around the holes so will leave this to dry over night. I won’t touch it again now. Please do not touch this stuff when you have painted it. Leave for as long as possible till it’s completely rock hard. If you haven’t used this stuff you will get to realise that. I did. Once you touch it when it’s wet it’s game over. You have to start over. So off back now to the bulk head. I did put carbon on but I wasn’t happy with it so have started again.
On to the front wheel hubs now. As you can see below the hubs are fairly correct in their appearance but there are a few modifications you can make. Firstly the holes for the speed sensors the weld lines and the spines at the top that run from the point that the callipers attach. There are two of them and one runs to the middle of the wheel side of the hub and one shorter one to the upper wishbone direction. If you look at your reference if you have my disc or download you will see what I am talking about. These are missing off the hub. I’ll be making them from small strips of plastic. Roughly 0.5mm.
First thing I need to do is sand down the tops and remove the horrible connection point for the air scoops. You don’t need them as they are incorrect. The air scoops attach directly to the back of the hub. For me it it also makes it difficult to add the speed sensor holes and the weld lines.
Both have been removed so now back to the reference to check where to put the weld lines and the speed sensor holes for the cable.
The weld lines and sensor holes are complete. I just need to clean them up a bit and sand down around the weld lines to make it smooth but here they are ready for the spines at the top. I’ll get them done in the next hour or so then the weld lines on the other side.
So the rear of the hubs have been completed. On now to the little spines on the top of the hubs where the wishbones attach and the steering rods. Taking quite a while to construct and after a few attempts with different types of plastic I’ve come up with this. One down and the next underway.
The material I’m using is so thin that it needs so much delicacy.
As you can see above, which is the best way of showing you, this is the thinness of these things in comparison to the lines on your cutting mats. Very delicate but once in they really do start to make the hubs look better.
Both complete. They just need to be cleaned up and they are ready for paint.
Back to the monocoque and sand down the filler I added earlier. Once that’s done I’ll finish off the interior with the German grey and glass balls. I’ll have to leave it then till the ECU set comes. Due to not really knowing what the layout will be at the rear (as in what I’ll have to cut and remove and add), I have nothing more I can do to it. It’s way too early to prime etc so onto another area of the car. I may get onto the rear hubs and air scoops. Oh, just had a thought. Rather than start that I can change the front scoops to compliment the hubs then most of the prep for the front end is done.
The scoops are too angular at the front and the rear on the inside is too large so will be sanding thaws down and using plastic car lad to rectify them.
Here are the inner and outer sides of both the scoops. If you look at the reference you will get what I am relating too.
It doesn’t look much at the moment but it’s getting there. I’ve completely butchered the left band air scoop. Sanding it down also to make it wafer thin and then rebuilding the inner side as it should be. Here is a front and back image of the stage I’m at. A long way to go yet but bare with me you will slowly see the final outcome being much better and more accurate.
This is the part of building I love the most. Finding areas to change and make more accurate.
Finally the left hand scoop has been finished ready for paint and carbon decals.
It’s taken me all day to do one side so I assume the same tomorrow. Once I’ve cleaned them up and put primer on they will look great. Once that’s done I’ll be spraying them semi gloss black. For now that’s it. I’m shattered. As I said I’ve been doing this all day and my eyes are going. I’m hoping they look more accurate and as per the reference but I’m happy so far. So, till next time.
After a short early morning job this morning I’m back in the work space. Firstly I’d like to say that the kit top studio has provided for the EcU is awesome. I haven’t got mine yet but a mate received his last night (Graham) and I’m really happy with what I’m seeing. However there is an issue. Apparently the first batch has been sent out without the PE set Sheer A. This covers the radiator PE. Look at your sets and contact Top studio direct to get sorted if you are in this situation. So off the back of the manual that Graham showed me I have done the following in preparation for mine. I’ve sanded down the whole back end and fitted the engine bulk head with metal plate. So your Williams fw14b rear fuel panel should look like this when sanded down. I’m going to leave it there for now until I receive the set as I need to know where the fuel refilling head and breather pipe section need to be recessed.
Now, because I’ve sanded down the top the air intake for the engine around the drivers head sticks out a bit at the back. So I’ve had to sand down ten sections below so they run flat with the surface. Done sand to harsh or much as it still need to marry up nicely with the upper cowling.
The air intake is now attached to the monocoque and ready for its next stage. The interior is complete ready for detail but will get on with that when the rest of the tub is ready when I have the EcU set. I decided to get some micro grey filler on the under tray to see if there are any areas that need finishing off that are on view and I’m fairly happy with the outcome. I use the grey as if gives me a better platform to work off when I’m finishing my parts.
I’m really happy with how the rear turned out with the modifications I did. I’ve sanded it down a bit more as I feel it wasn’t a true reflection of the carbon on the car for thickness.
I’ve finished off the other front brake air scoop too whist I was waiting for things to dry. All I need to do is just sand the top down as I added some filler in a little gap that I noticed form sanding earlier. As these parts are so small when sanding down they become quite thin and brittle but once the filler has dried I’ll sand down gently and then it’s ready for paint and carbon decals.
Getting really close now to the fun bit of detailing the cock pit and the front end. I’ll be doing the front first then the cockpit once I know what’s happening to the rear of the monocoque. Hopefully not long now from when I ordered the ECU set to when I receive it.
A good morning at work again today and when I got back there was a nice parcel for me in the form of the ECU set.
So my first job this afternoon amongst a few things is to make sure that the rear of the monocoque is adapted to fit the fuel refill mound. So here goes I’ll update shortly with what I have come up with.
Having a play with the battery pack and the fuel refill connector mound, I have found a few things of interest. Firstly as you can see below the battery pack has a little nodule on the back. There is also a hole on the original monocoque mould. Do not destroy or fill it in. This is your guide for everything else around it. The manual unfortunately isn’t the greatest so you have to use a bit of common sense. So I’m doing all this to see where I need to put things before I start spraying the undercoats.
Above the top of the battery pack I’ll probably measure 1-2mm then draw a base line as to where I want the mound to go. As below.
I’ve made two marks that will enable me to draw a level base line for the top of the battery and the base of the mound. You may wonder where I got this tiny spirit level from? Well it’s off a wall bracket for a tv that I kept for doing things just like this.
Now that I’ve completed this I can fill in any holes made but the sanding off of the original mound and prep it ready for paint. There is one more area I am interested in and that’s the area at the entrance of the rear of the air intake above the driver. In the reference the inner sides have a curved appearance as you look though to the front. I’ll create some curved edges with some thin plastic card and glue them in and use some filler to form the curve.
Whilst I’ve been waiting for the filler to dry on the air Intake on the monocoque have been redoing the side pod covers and I’m much happier with them. A lot more subtle and they look so much better. I just have to wait for the filler to dry on the back and I’ll sand them down to conform with the panels so they don’t stick out when I put the heat resistant material on.
Another thing I noticed was the insides of the side pods. They are concave with holes everywhere. I’ve filled these in ready for carbon decals. Again I’m doing this as I know it will be there but not necessarily viewable.
Tip of the day and something I swear by is this. If you look back at something and think, “god I wish I’d done it a different way or used a different material”. Have those conversations with yourself at this point. For me the whole point of prep is understanding how the finished model will work/look. Make sure you are happy with it now rather than think later this wasn’t what I wanted. I saw something I wasn’t happy with and it was posting on here that prompted me to have that thought. So I changed it. At this stage it’s easy to rectify. Once the paint and clear coats have gone on it’s edging on too late.
From the image below you can see the look I am going for. The kit section that represents the air intake glues to the monocoque and presents a square exit down to the battery pack. This is incorrect. It has a more cylindrical appearance and curved base at the left and right hand side. I’ve used a pice of plastic card about 1mm in thickness and glued it on the inner walls and to the top of the monocoque. Then I’ve used a scalpel and carved out the sides. I’ve then used a rounded putty tool to create the curve on the inner sides. Once this dries I’ll then used some high grit paper on the end of the tool to smooth down the walls and the two lower sides that meet the monocoque.
The air intake for the engine is really taking shape now. Still a way to go to get it really smooth. Taking my time over this as it’s really delicate.
The side pods are nearly dry so will sand them before I finish for the day .
After cleaning and tidying up the work shop last night I had a couple of gins and looked through some of my reference as I do. I’m constantly looking through it to make sure I haven’t missed anything for the prep stage. I noticed a few things on the side pods that need to be done so will be going through these shortly. Mainly to do with the stages within the top studio set but also the physical elements of the carbon and how they look. Things like raised edges, grooves etc.
Both pods have been sanded down on the inside and then I’ll be concentrating on the upper rear ends where the radiators sit. I’ll be scratch building the raised sections and the top edge on the pod. As below.
These sections will be primed with grey micro filler and then a Matt black finish then carbon.
The area circled on both pods that need adjusting to replicate the correct pods on the car. I’ll be using thin strips of plastic in very thin sections and then glued and sanded to just about sit off the main surface area.
I forgot to mention that the underside of the side pod covers have been sanded down and are now ready for paint.
I’ve laid down a piece of plastic strip and glued to the pod. Once that’s dry I cut down the ends at an angle to form around the top of the radiator. As below.
Once it’s all down I’ll sand down to the point that they just sit above the surface. Some of them are more raised than others. This is where the little sanding strips can come in handy so I can get in there without damaging the strips.
These are the ones I’m using. Courtesy of Gary Kirby. Thanks buddy they are well worth the purchase.
I’ve re done the top section as I wasn’t happy with it. All I need to do now is sand it all down and onto the other one.
Once I’ve done the other one I’ll get on with finishing off the monocoque. I need to create a recess for the fuel refill mound. As the top studio set doesn’t suggest you do this or show you anything to cut out for it, I’m going to stick with the reference I have and stick with what I’m trying to do. Replicate this car as much as I can.
So this part is almost complete. Just need to finish off the two bottom sections. This is in its raw stage. But once it’s painted and the carbon is on I’m certain it will look better than the original kit.
Due to the colour contrast between the white and black the plastic I’ve added looks quite pronounced however when you look at it from an angle it’s super fine and is only just raised above the surface which is what I wanted.
It’s not the best image but it gives you an idea of how thin these strips have been sanded down too. One thing I did notice earlier which I do need to do and that is the 2 directional fins inside the side pods that run from half way down to the radiators. How I will add this at this point I am unsure but I have the weekend to think about it.
Prior to picking my daughter up for the weekend and whilst waiting for the side pods to cure I decided to start a bit of detailing on the cockpit.
I’ve managed to get a few other bits done but I threw my dummy out of the pram earlier when I had an issue with 4 nuts that disappeared. I eventually found another pe sheet with the same ones on so I can relax now. I will update tomorrow or on Monday with the additional add ons. The steering boss is on and a few dials and one switch. I will paint them after as it’s easier holding the dash and painting than holding the toggle switches with a pair of tweezers. You know what happens when you do that…..
Amongst other things this weekend I’ve been researching and studying all my reference to make sure I’ve not missed anything at this stage that could compromise the build in terms of authenticity. There are a few things that I’ve noticed one in particular is the incorrect side pods. They aren’t flat they start low at the front and slowly curve upwards to the rear of the radiators. I can’t believe I never noticed before. I removed now discussing it with the chief mechanic back when I photographed it. However after 15 years your memory tends to fail you. It’s only because I found some extra photos in the cd from different angles that I realised. Luckily I’m at a stage where nothing has really been done to them apart from some detailing at the rear and filling some unwanted mould holes.
I was also going to leave the recess under the fuel refill valve but I’ve decided that I’m going to do it. I have a plan and will update you all where I get up to with it tomorrow during the course of the day.
Today has been a slow day. Not had a great deal of time to do anything due to sorting out a few things for work, but I did get the chance to have a couple of hours on the cockpit. I’ve started to detail the dash as mentioned the other day. Most of the actual dash has been completed but still a long way to go. As I previously stated earlier on at the beginning of the build I’ll be doing the full interior detail then painting the outside like the aviation guys do,
It’s starting to look like an FW14B. At all stages I make sure that everything I do fits. However, in this case when I put the top on there was too much distance between parts, so I had to create a recess on the underside of the top cover. Therefore allowing the parts to fit properly. Due to the glass balls it allowed the top cover to sit prouder than necessary, So I cut a Chanel in the under side that will not be seen allowing the tub and the upper section to sit flush.
One thing I have noticed whilst putting these pieces together is that I need to give the inner tub another coat of German grey. I’ve scratched a few glass balls off leaving the enamel showing which isn’t pretty. But that’s just a small matter of tidying things up, one thing I hate is seeing things that need to be done later on to finish off but it’s part of the process. However it does my head in as I want it perfect all the time, I keep saying to myself don’t worry as long as you remember and rectify it, all is good. Bare in mind a lot of mistakes you do, as long as they are hidden and can’t be seen by the naked eye are ok, it’s part of the process it’s part of the journey. We all make them, remember that.
Considering this is a detailed wip I’ve decided not to go into great detail on the dash. Purely because it’s a dash and there isn’t a great deal to say about it to be honest. But I started the underside of the cockpit and the harness points. I will be going into more detail on this as per the top studio set so when I get back to it tomorrow hopefully after a job I have to do I will show you what I am doing. There will be a lot of airbrush usage and finalising the underside of the seat. Once that is done I will add it to the tub, lock it into place and then add the extra detail accordingly, I feel this is the best way as I don’t want to construct the whole thing then ruin it as I attach it. Most of the top studio set will be constructed then the cables, wires and hoses can be added afterwards. As long as the perpetuation has been completed the rest should go according to plan,
One thing I will say is you need to pay a lot of attention and take your time over the detail on the dash. It’s probably the most intricate part of the cockpit. The frustrating thing is because it’s so far forward under the top of the monocoque you don’t see a lot of it. But as per the pics above I will when it’s finished do some close up photography with flash so you get the general idea of what it will look like.
After having a lengthy conversation with Jay Kay (Joachim Kutt) we have decided that the side pods however much they may need a bit of adjusting don’t need as much as I thought. Rather than messing about with the actual side pods provided by Tamiya I’ll be working the lower section that creates the base of the side pods and the undercarriage of the monocoque. I’ll be thinning this down and making it more subtle. Therefore lowering the front end without too much of an obvious change but making the sides look a lot more like the original car.
After the morning job we had on today I got back to the workshop around 1pm and got stuck straight in. I’ve left the top of the monocoque, i.e the fuel filler section to a full day as I need quite an early start to get this out of the way with no disruptions. So back to today I got stuck into the inner tub and seat section.
I started to look at the resin parts and was again impressed with top studios moulds. I’ve started to do the left and right hand sides of the back of the seat. So I split them into sections and started to paint the parts with a gloss black Alclad base ready for the metal finishes.
Really light coats of black building them up to get that sheen I want that’s not over the top and keeps the detail on the parts. One thing I see a lot of and it’s happened to me is the ability to over spray things. Don’t do it. Take your time and note when the detail is at its optimum before it starts to go.
Once these had dried I started to finish them with metal finishes.
Once these dried I transferred them over to my finishing bench where I do all my detailing and started to put things together ready for mounting.
As you can see the detail is awesome. The cockpit is going to look amazing when it’s finished. So I’ve added some detail to the seat but won’t show this till tomorrow as it’s not ready for touching yet.
One thing I experienced today is that you need to make sure you are careful with the clamps that go round the cylinders. They are really fiddly even for 1/12 but you need to make sure you have prepped everything in advance and have everything ready for a one shot deal. What I mean is the metal bands that go round the cylinders need to be set so that the cylinders can slide straight in and then tighten. Don’t over play with the metal. I had a heart stopping moment when one of the fittings was close to breaking off.
Today has been a long day. Since 9 this morning I’ve been in the workshop and only just finished for the day. Time for a gin and watch some tv and chill with the cats.
So, the first thing I did today was revisit the rear of the monocoque to deal with the recess for the fuel filler area.
I marked out the area I wanted to cut and test fitted the battery pack again just to make sure everything was in place.
I used my dremel to bore out the hole then started to sand down with a slightly curved metal file.
I wanted the hole to be the exact size of the top studio part so that it slots straight in and drops to the inner layer of the plastic kit part. Therefor giving off that recessed look.
I then filled the sides with putty over a piece of plastic card that I shaped and glued on the underside so the fuel refill head could sit on it.
Once this was dried I sanded down the inner rim to get a smooth finish.
Obviously it’s rough at the moment. I need to give it some more sanding treatment. I checked at all times to make sure the distance between the battery pack and the bottom of the recess were still separated by no more than 2mm.
After spending a few hours on this I decided to do some detailing work on the under seat section where top studio has provided us with all these lovely little bits of fun as I call them.
Starting with the harnesses I decided this would be the first port of call. I always get scared of harnesses no matter what scale I do them in. However I’m fairly chuffed with how these turned out.
Once these were on I got straight to the tank at the base of the dash. This was finished in carbon decal with the original decal from Tamiya and the photoetch strap provided in the studio set.
Photographs don’t do this piece justice but so far so good. I added some hoses and prepped them ready for final assembly.
Whilst I was waiting for those parts to set I added some more wiring to the already assembled dash.
So not much to show for 9 hours work however there has been a lot of detailing. It’s amazing how long things take to assemble as they are so delicate. I’m fairly happy so far with the detail sets and can’t wait to assemble them into the tub. There are still loads of bits to do inside the tub. Specifically the additional detail on the inner walls that’s missing and the drive shaft and pedals. Then back onto the front bulkhead. I must have re done that part so many times as I wasn’t happy with it. I will be getting back to it tomorrow morning. Another full day ahead before my daughter comes over for the weekend.
It’s never ending….. just had a conversation with Malc from Birmingham wanting to know how I’ll address the following issue.
As you can see there is a flaw in the kit around this area, I will show you one of my original photos of the car and you will notice that the paint work is vertical but the actual upper part of the monocoque slopes down towards the front of the car and curls downwards at the sides to where the bull horns are. The Tamiya kit replicates the paint scheme but not the correct contours of the car body.
This image Above shows you in a clearer fashion as to what we are on about. So my task tomorrow Malc is to address this and resolve it. I’m certain that plastic card, putty and a lot of sanding is in order. Thanks Malc for making me aware of this. I’m always happy for comments and help. We can’t always see everything when we are engrossed in other areas.
It’s been a long drawn out day doing the bull horns and the rear panels that go around the drive shaft and rear suspension.
I started off doing the panels and the rear. I got a piece of 0.3mm plastic card and stuck them to it. With a careful hand I scored round the perimeter and prepped them ready for cutting the lips down around the edges.
Above are the pieces in question that I have been working on today. The panels were sanded down flat and all the hooking parts that attach to the under tray were removed. I still have to add the tags that connect it to the under tray and the upper cowling and side pod covers.
If you look carefully you can see the edges have been stripped back and sanded down to appear just like that of the original.
This has been the most time consuming thing as of yet. If you notice either side of the top section there is a recess for the actuators and the bull horns. Now if you look at the reference this is a continuous inverted edge that curves slowly to the front of the bulk head and meets further out towards the outer edge of the panel. I was thinking all evening yesterday working out how I’d do this. Well using plastic car was out of the question and I didn’t want to butcher the piece even though I have a couple of spare parts. So I opted for my humbrol grey putty and a bit of imagination. These were my results
I lathered the areas I wanted to work on and left for an hour or so. Now normally I’d leave for a good 24hrs however with the humbrol putty it sets dry instantly within 10 minutes on the surface but takes a while on the inner side. I use this to my advantage. I leave it long enough so that it’s not too sticky and I’m able to play with it. I can push it and tease it into positions that I am happy with.
I always make sure when I modify parts that I’m able to accommodate for other parts. In this case the hood and the actuators. Now the car won’t have the hood on in display mode so to some it wouldn’t matter but I’d like all the parts to be put together to make a finished piece too.
This is the final result. I do have to give it a little sand down to finish it off but I’ll be leaving that till tomorrow when it’s fully set. I’m so much happier with the look of it and it looks more like the real thing. I will Also accommodated for the actuators too with a slight recessed section but not a great deal.
I forgot to mention the air intake on the left rear panel. I carved out a scoop and glued it to the area it needs to be in. Added some putty and will sculpt it into the panel. Once I’ve done that I’ll cut a pice out of the print side and sand it down to the correct shape.
Prior to finishing off for the day I had a little look at the bulk head and started preparing for tomorrow.
There’s a lot of detail in this kit that doesn’t need a lot of painting but I am going to weather a few bits and paint a few bits including these nuts.
Tiny little bolts that secures the bottom brace that holds the lower wishbones to the lower section of the moncocoque. These are dark in colour so opted for a semi Matt black. Once they have dried I will do a bit of chipping on them to make them look used as is in the reference.
Due to the weather changing and the sun coming out a bit and temperatures rising work has kicked off, plenty of roofs and other jobs to do so the fw14b has to take a back seat. The current job I started today was putting a new roof on a huge self build. It should take a couple of weeks so I doubt I’ll get any model building done. So apologies if this happens. I obviously will get back to it but for the moment it’s pretty static. Keep looking out and I will be back to it as soon as possible. (Even though work comes first it’s doing my head in I want to be in the workshop all day every day! Lol).
Today was a bit of a strange day. Went to work laid 15 slates then the heavens opened. Waited about 45 mins to see it if subsided. No chance. Got home about 10am and oh look the sun is out….. tut tut. However when the man above gives you an opportunity to get back in the workshop to build you don’t look a gift horse in the mouth. So off I went and got stuck in.
So, where do I start? It’s been nearly a week since I was in here so I had a look about and decided to get a few bits painted ready to detail the front bulk head and brake cylinders.
I got a few bits painted and left them to dry for a few hours. Using Alclad gloss black base and white aluminium I finished off the reservoir holders. Then the banjos were done the same way but painted with chrome to bring out that gloss shine. I will address the wiring at a later stage as I have prepped for this. I find it easier to add the extra detail at the last minute. I need to know exactly where I am going with the build before I do so so I know exactly at what stage I need to add it. Whilst I was waiting I decided to revisit the monocoque and get it ready for its first coat of grey micro filler. I do this for one reason. To make sure that every part of the item I am building is clean and void of any scratches, holes, deviations etc.
At this point when it’s dry I can see any of the imperfections or areas that need filling with putty. So I scoured the monocoque and added the putty where it was needed. Any lines or marks were filled in and left to dry. When you sand down and grind out bits you tend to leave tool marks in the plastic and this is why I do this, to make sure any mistakes are removed before final paint. Once it dried I sanded down still using my three stage sanding process making sure That all areas were clean and smooth.
Every nook and cranny has been filled in smoothed off and ready for the second course of undercoat. I will do this multiple times till I know that every part of the final part is ready.
As you can see from above the bulk head is nearly done. I will go through this at a later stage. One thing I will say is there are a few tricky bits with the clear tubing that connect the brake fluid reservoirs. You don’t get a lot of it so either get some as spare because you will need it if you make a mistake. It’s also a pain to sort. Halfway though doing this I had a drama and my bulb in the large magnifying glass I used blew. I’ve ordered a new one but won’t be here till Monday so no modelling for me till next week.
Another good thing to come out of today was the arrival of Sheet A from the ECU set. Thank you Top Studio for sorting it out so quickly with no fuss.
So at least the full radiator set is there. One thing I will add is a few weld lines and a few other areas that aren’t covered in the top studio set. This will be shown at a later stage.
Back in the workshop today. The weather is too dangerous to be up at heights and with the rain lashing down I don’t particularly want to get soaked within ten minutes of being up there. So back to the Williams. Quite a lot to do today. Including the 2nd coat of under paint. I did notice river the weekend when I was doing a tidy up of the workshop that there was a part of the u see side of the monocoque that wasn’t filled. So I added a bit of putty and that will get sanded down shortly. I did however manage to get hold of some water slide decals for the car from Indycals and those should be with me this week hopefully.
So, today has been a strange one. One thing I’d like to point out. The decals that I bought on eBay that were blown up studio 27 carbon for the 1/20 Fujimi fw14b are truly horrible. Do not waste your money on them however cheap they come across. I have never come across anything so hideous when you apply them. When they are on your panels and surfaces become chess boards. I tried to spray over them with some clear smoke and a bit of watered down Matt black and it just did not work. I was so annoyed that I ripped it off. I wish I’d taken a picture to show you how bad it was but hey ho. The carbon decals are way too light. I believe the process of enlarging them has brightened them up and whoever made them has neglected to darken them up again. Anyway. I’ve decided to use the carbon from the sets as templates and make my own carbon for the fw14b.
I started the day with the detailing of the radiators.
First thing I had to do was remove the mould lines on the sides and tops.
As you can see these are not conducive with the original car.
I started by adding the hose joints that fit directly to the original kit parts. In the studio set you get a RS3 and RS4 set. Whichever engine you choose to create I assume that on the engine detail set when it comes out there will be other options to accommodate this.
Once this was completed I got to the PE set for the front and rear of the radiators. One thing I did notice is that when applying the PE it sits proud of the radiators. So a little bit of craft work is needed.
These two areas needed to be cut out. Don’t worry about ruining the radiators underneath as you won’t see it but you have to be careful when cutting close to the edges so you don’t damage the frame work.
This is a better image to get an idea of what needs removing.
They fit snugly inside so I stuck them down.
I use these mini clamps that allow the parts to bond but not too hard so as to damage the PE.
Once that was done I added the verticals partitions. These were straightforward and sat above the large panel and sat snugly under the lip at the tops and bottoms of the radiators.
Once these dried I stared with the weld lines. There are 3 of them. One on the outer side running down the inside lip. Then there is another on the opposite side with a final one running down the middle of the outer side to the edge of where the hose connects and runs to the rear of the engine just before the gearbox.
Once these have been painted with gloss primer I’ll metal finish them and clear coat over the top.
At this point I decided to get the nose cone ready for its first coat of primer then first coat of Williams Blue.
It’s been a bit all over the place today jumping from one thing to another but I won’t touch things that I have done for at least 24-48hrs. This way I know they are set and ready for paint.
Last thing I did today was finish off the monocoque ready for paint. I test fitted a few bits to make sure they were ok.
I’ve not had a great deal of time in the workshop. Roofing work has been hectic of late so it’s taken a back seat. I did however have a little play with a few things specifically the front nose and wing.
I’ve filled the interior of the nose with 1/20 scale carbon decals and added the livery decals but not the main red and white lines as I’ll need these to be added when the tub is done. (So I can line them all up) The nose cone connecting plate for the front bulk head looks good dry fitted so I need to get these glossed up and the carbon added.
Not sure if the yellow carbon under the top of the nose is correct. This isn’t fully on so may have to get a smaller weave with a less vibrant appearance.
The next thing to do was get the front wing prepped for all the new additions.
Quite a lot of work needs to be done on this so will show a few more pics of the areas that I’ll be removing and sanding down.
On the underside of the front wing there are loads of mould circles so they must be removed.
All the mould lines and additional moulded detail has been removed. You will notice the upper sections have been sanded down to leave space for the PE aerodynamic lips that sit up off the wing and curl down and inwards towards the lower section of the nose. As per the top studio manual these need to be removed anyway.
I then started work on the two side sections. These need a lot of work and thinning down and re shaping slightly as they are too thick.
Again there are loads of mould lines marks and other bits that need removing too. If you look at the reference there are a couple of sections that need to be removed, bored out and a few holes drilled. You will notice my marker points where I need to work on them. The actual kit parts suggest an over lapping connection plate that changes the position of the aerodynamics and attaches the side sections is incorrect. As an OOB or curbside it would look ok but I’m not looking for this effect. I want it to be one piece and concave as per reference with more holes in to look more authentic. I’ve tried to get them as near as dam it to the original but unless I re mould with a printer which I don’t have this will have to do.
This particular section needs a bit of work. It won’t be perfect but it will be a lot better than the kit.
This area too will need to be filled with filler and smoothed off as I’ll be removing some connection parts on the left and right hand sides of the lower and upper front wings.
As you can see form this picture. I’ve removed the side parts and they will be attached to the sides with some metal rods. I’ll show this at a later stage. This enables the wing to hold better when glued and make it easier to glue without leaving any damage or glue residue.
I also managed to get the rocker covers for the engine removed off the sprues and peppered for the nuts. I’m using some top studio 1mm silver nuts that I will modify to look more like the originals.
I’m going to leave those for now and get to the engine a lot later on as I’m waiting like us all for the engine set.
One thing I have decided to do is paint on by hand the little white lines in the carbon once its on the car prior to final finishing gloss coats. Due to the carbon that I bought on eBay being so awful this is my only option as I cannot find that weave/style in decal format anywhere. I’ll be practicing on some loose pieces I have lying about to get the colour right as I don’t want to mess it up or get it too bright. It’s an off white dull colour.
Managed to get into the workshop for a bit today. Didn’t get loads done but managed to start on the exterior of the monocoque. I also started the process of cutting down and reconstructing the pedals.
In kit form the pedals are pretty good but I wanted to make them even more realistic even though you really don’t see them. So above is the pedal cluster and I’ve marked the areas that I want to work on. Firstly I need to separate it into three separate sections and the middle connectors that protrude form the rear and enter the cylinders.
I’ve drilled the pedals out and cut them apart.
The two parts at the bottom I will leave for later and butcher them to slide into a piece of copper solid tube.
I was originally going to use the copper for connecting the lower sections together but after measuring with my micrometer I didn’t have the correct thickness. To attach the lower sections I had a 0.4mm roughly measured section to drill but only had copper in 1mm. I chose some silver rod that was 0.33mm which is perfect.
So I’ve not cut them down properly so I can illustrate what I’m doing. Those two pieces of silver tube will disappear within the lower pedals. Between each pedal lever and the central pedal there will be some PE washers to emulate the reference.
So 1) is the copper 1mm solid pipe that runs through the Center of the middle pedal and holds the levers to the cylinders. As I mentioned before I cut these down and slid them over the copper pipe. I have to still shape the plastic black parts as they are not 100% cylindrical. They taper from the inside to the outer lip at the top and bottom.
2) I added some 1/20 weld line as it’s more appropriate in scale than the 1/12 stuff. On each pedal there is a weld line as depicted above. Also on the outer right hand side there is a plate that holds the clip to the accelerator cable that runs through the cockpit. I’ll be using a banjo joint for this and show you later on.
3) the outer edges will have some 1mm nuts on the right hand side and the left to emulate how they are all concerned.
4) the Center pedal lover part that attaches to the bottom of the monocoque needs a plate making up for it so will do that with some metal sheet when I get the opportunity.
I also managed to get some cf and decals on the tub. There is a lot to do but will show this in more detail at a later date.
So much fabrication on this model kit to do. I don’t even think I’ve got to 25% of the remodelling I need to do. But as always I’ll show you as I go along,
Got a couple of things done today. Mainly the nose. It’s ready for clear coat now. I prefer adding everything I need to before I clear coat. I do have the red and white lines to add but I’ll do them tomorrow. My eyes are shot and I have things to do around the house.
The white dotted lines need adding too. These will be hand painted using the edge of a very small thin metal ruler prior to clear coat.
I thought I’d put the top on again and make sure everything still fits ok. Plus I need to mark the line between the yellow and blue on the upper monocoque. I’m pretty satisfied so far but so much more work needs doing on this large part of the car.
On a funny note and I’m convinced the vast majority of you have experienced this multiple times but I spent one and a half hours on my knees looking for a 3mm piece of PE that sprung out of my tweezers. Now!!! Not for a long time has this happened. I spent all that time on the floor looking about with my torch feeling about in every nook and cranny. On the shelves, on the desk everywhere. Now this part is one of two and it’s the metal plate on the upper wishbone connection point in the monocoque. One per side. I’d put one on and the PE nuts and got to the second one and for some reason it disappeared. So I sit there perplexed angry with myself so I contact top studio and request whether I can get hold of another one. No sooner had I done that I decided to do some more work on the inner side of the monocoque and what was in there???? The bloody PE part. I had to laugh at myself.
After a few days off working I had a spare day and decided to get a few things done on the car. I started looking at getting the cockpit fitted and the detail added.
First thing was to make the lonely shiny metal pipes that run either side of the cockpit. I’ve decided to add a few other bits that the top studio kit doesn’t provide and that’s the nuts that hold the connection points for the pipes. I have loads of top studio PE nuts laying about that need using so on they went. They make the connectors look more realistic.
I used to build up the electrical connectors prior to fitting but decided to do it this way as it’s so much easier. Get them all set up before hand then glue in and run the wires to them after the fact.
I just have spent a good 6 hours doing all the electrical lines and brake lines. I had a few mishaps but managed to get it to a standard that I was happy with. It’s very fiddly and not a great deal of room. For some reason as I’ve done so many 1/20 f1 cars over the last 5 years I find it easier to detail them than 1/12. But that’s all the fun. Making it as realistic as possible.
One thing I did notice which you don’t see until you photograph it is the harness block. The round section that links all the straps. It looks awful so will remove it and remove the decal and refit and use mat clear coat over the top. I used to just leave them as is but for some reason this time it didn’t work out.
You will also notice there is some weathering going on too. Around the edges of certain areas of the tub I have chipped away and sprayed weathering Alclad paint to give the appearance that it’s been in a race. I’ve also chipped certain areas to depict the worn sections as per reference. Once the inner detail is added and the cover is completed and added I’ll clear coat and give it a nice shine. I decided to do it this way as I felt it was easier to clear coat the complete tub when it was whole and not in sections. Each to their own. I guess it’s how your prefer to do it and how comfortable your are in the way you like building.